Sunday, 30 October 2016

London Markets and Museum


Needed a change of scene so the teenager and I hopped on a ferry, a bus and several trains and went to London town for a few days to visit family. We arrived at tea time, had my nephew’s delicious pasta carbonara, and watched ‘The Heat’ in the evening; I’d not seen this before, to the shock of the family, and found it hilarious. Good choice.
The next day, the teenager, her cousin and I hopped on a bus and headed to the British Museum for a day of culture. We toured the Greek, Roman and Egyptian galleries, and whizzed through the Assyrian section (seen it before), admiring ancient pottery, coinage, statuary and sarcophagi. I hadn’t been to the Greek pottery section since I was a schoolgirl studying Classics so wanted to go again. It wasn’t quite as exciting as I remembered but was interesting nonetheless. When we got to the Egyptian Mummy section we found it rather crowded; clearly people enjoy looking at dead bodies! The sarcophagi here were impressive, with beautiful decorations. Our final visit was to the Sutton Hoo collection; this was a collection of treasures found in an Anglo-Saxon boat burial in Suffolk (I think that’s right!), and was rather magnificent. I had read about it before, and was excited to view the real thing. We had a lovely day, and didn’t manage to see everything in the Museum so may have to go back.
In the evening we went to Dulwich and had a meal at Jaflong Indian restaurant. This was delicious, and made all of us happy! We had a variety of dishes, and tried each other’s too, and were all stuffed and sated by the end. Highly recommended.
The following day became a market pilgrimage. We began by getting the bus to Borough Market, and wandering around. Oh my goodness, I have never seen so much cheese under one roof! We pottered about, trying free samples of cheese, pickles, and anything else available, bought freshly made cheese and olive bread sticks, and generally got over excited about all the lovely food. Oh, we also found an Isle of Wight Tomato stall  so bought some of those. Very crowded, but good fun. Afterwards we caught a bus to London Bridge and walked across it, past Pudding Lane, and on to Leadenhall Market; the shops were closed over the weekend as most customers are city workers. However, we could wander around inside and admire the architecture. Lots of photographs were taken by the majority of the party. We stopped at the pub there for a drink and then caught a bus towards home. Some of us hopped off at Elephant and Castle to explore the Chinese supermarket there (lots of goodies!), then wandered along the road, ending up at East Street market; this was the polar opposite of Borough Market, and had loads of stalls selling fruit and veg, clothing, accessories, meat, fish, etc. for extremely reasonable prices. I’d definitely go there if I lived locally. In the evening we ate homemade pizza (delish) and chocolate cheesecake (also delish) and watched 'Untouchable' together. This is a magnificent film and I suggest you watch it (I don't say that often!).

We were a bit more laid back on the final day; most people toddled off to Church, teenager remained in bed and I pottered about. This included a stroll around the lovely Ruskin Park. This park is popular with the locals and I spent time dodging children on bikes, joggers and dogs on their morning walk. There was also a community vegetable garden, tennis courts, skateboard ramps, basketball hoops, and a paddling pool, not to mention plenty of  mature Horse Chestnut trees, large expanses of grass, a pond, a flower labyrinth in the making, autumn cyclamen peeping through the leaf litter, a café and a bandstand. Oh, and grey squirrels (very tame). Lots of them. We're not keen on them on the Island as we only have the native red squirrels, but the London greys were tolerable in context! I also got to kick through piles of windblown leaves on the way to and from the park which made me very happy.  We finished the visit with a delicious Sunday roast cooked by my sister, and then travelled home by trains, buses and a ferry. What a lovely time we had!
Roof detail, British Museum

Cheese stall, Borough Market

Entrance to Leadenhall Market
Ruskin Park fungi

Ruskin Park squirrel





Sunday, 23 October 2016

Ventnor and the Downs

Well, we had a plan. We were going to follow the National Trust route from Luccombe Down, via the Devil's Chimney, down to the beach and then back up the BIG hill. Hmmm. Sounded good. However, we got a bit lost trying to find the car park and had a grand tour of Upper Bonchurch, the local countryside and Shanklin duck pond before we figured out where it was. By this time it was nearly 3pm on a slightly gloomy autumn afternoon and we were not as keen as we had been.

Onwards and downwards though, but ditching the original route. We parked at the end of a chalk track on top of Luccombe Down and admired the magnificent views across Sandown Bay, and also the English Channel. We marched off down the Down, heading down Nansen Hill and emerging on the road opposite Smugglers Haven tea rooms by Devil's Chimney. We continued along the road for a bit, before finding the footpath on the right. Once through the gate we were confronted with a hill full of feral goats. Now, I'm reasonably sure that they posed no threat, but they had ENORMOUS horns - at least half as big as each goat -  and, quite frankly, we feared for the safety of our kneecaps if we irritated them. Also, they could run faster than us. It's not that we're a pair of big ol' scaredy cats, honest.

Back to the road in search of another footpath heading upwards, which we eventually found just past a bend in the road. On the way we were able to admire the variety of architecture in the area - the locals seem to have a thing for random turrets on their houses, - and the breathtaking, vertigo inducing, views of the town below. We found our path in the woods, but quickly realised it was treacherous so turned back; the path was narrow and steep with a precipitous drop down to the road below. Not only that, it was covered with a slippery layer of evergreen oak leaves, so turning back was really the sensible option.

We followed the path in the other direction, still through the woods but much more level, past tennis courts and grand Victorian Villas and came out on the road near the Bowling Club. We continued on the road until we got to the industrial estate and took the steep footpath there back up the down. Oh. My. Goodness. It was steep. We stopped regularly for a breather - the wind was strong and took our breath away - and eventually got to the top. Phew! The view of the town below and the surrounding hills was incredible.

The final slog took us past WW2 pill boxes and Ventnor Radar Station, which was bombed heavily in the war. I had heard rumours of an underground town under this hill years ago, and found an information board saying that there was in fact a Cold War era nuclear bunker there. I need to see this! Very exciting, but unlikely to be open to the public sadly.

An excellent, invigorating walk, and we'll do the original route another day. When we're fitter. And have warmer clothing.

Distance: approx. 3.5 - 4 miles.

View to Sandown Bay

Bonchurch

Random turret




Pill box