Niton and St Lawrence

Today's adventure was around the south of the Island. We parked at the top end of St Catherine's Road then walked down and joined Castle Haven Lane. We followed this past some lovely gardens and a great view of St Catherine's Lighthouse, down to the beach, where we found several lobster pots, a cafe and some huts. The tide was very high so after walking along the rock sea defences we turned back and walked up to Undercliff Drive.

Undercliff Drive has been closed to through traffic for several years due to a large landslip. We ambled along it for some time, passing woodland, interesting houses, snails, crossing a bridge and a strange stone inscribed with initials and a date and surrounded by a cage. No idea what it was for! We also found the remains of a stone cottage in a small nature reserve which had a small cloud of bumblebees buzzing round it. There were also enormous fungi!

We followed Undercliff Drive to Ventnor Botanic Gardens and had a very pleasant lunch in the cafe there. Afterwards we had a mooch around the gardens (Gardeners World 2 for 1 card came in handy here!) admiring all the interesting plants and then joined the coastal path and started our way back.

The coastal path led past Orchard Bay. We could see a rock at the far end with three cormorants on it, so we went down the steps and crossed the beach to have a closer look. This was a new beach to me and I really liked it! The beach was covered in fine shingle (not ideal when wearing sandals) but had big rocks at the bottom and sides which were great for scrambling on. We got quite close to the cormorants and then had an explore of the rocks and rock pools; there were lots of clusters of winkles (I think. Sea snails anyway.) in depressions in the rocks, and a lot of limpets. As we made our way back over the rocks near the steps we saw a lizard - really exciting! Neither of us had seen one before. We then saw a wren, which was nice but not as exciting.

Back up the steps then to follow the coastal path to St Lawrence and up a side path leading to St Lawrence Old Church. This was delightful. The church is small, seating perhaps 60 people, and dates from the twelfth century. The first rector was called Roger! There is a beautiful pre-raphaelite stained glass window there too.

We walked back into the village and rejoined Undercliff Drive and made our way back to the car. A really lovely, interesting walk.

Distance, including the botanic gardens, approx. 16km.

Route: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/843531?units=km

Ventnor to Shanklin

More travels with teenagers today. We were dropped off at Ventnor Botanic Gardens, left the car park, turned right and followed the road to the cricket pitch where we turned right again to go down to Love Lane. The path from here led us to Steephill Cove, where we walked above the beach for a while then along the shore path and up, steeply,  to Flowers Brook where we skipped down the hill towards the green and the pond, and continued along the path, up steep steps and on to Ventnor.

 

The road led along the seafront and we paused for a comfort break at the far end below the Winter Gardens. We continued along the seafront revetment  until we got to Bonchurch Pottery, and shortly afterwards took the path that led up through the woods to the church and East Dene House. The path skirted the edge of the grounds and led on to the Landslip, a local landmark which is heavily wooded. It was somewhat humid in the woods, and I suffered a bit. However, this gave me an excuse to stay at the back and mop up straggling students! We eventually emerged from the Landslip and followed the path past Dunnose Magna and on to Luccombe, from where we followed the road down to Shanklin, and then down on to the beach where we stopped for lunch and a well earned cuppa!   

 

I was absolutely exhausted by the end. This was a relatively short walk, but the heat and humidity combined with the ups and downs of the path made it hard going. However, we made it in one piece, and I finished the day judging a sand sculpture competition for another group of students from our school. Lovely.

Distance: 5.5 miles
Route: https://gb.mapometer.com/walking/route_4579407.html

Wild Nights Out..... September

Shanklin Chine

We decided to end the summer holidays with an evening visit to Shanklin Chine; this meant that parts of the chine were illuminated with ever changing coloured lights and looked delightful. We had a lovely time pottering along the paths, and admiring the view over the English Channel with the lights of container ships glittering on the horizon. Definitely worth a visit if you are down that way.

Mark Steel's In Town, Ventnor Winter Gardens
I was allocated a couple of free tickets to this by the BBC and had a lovely, giggly evening with a friend, listening to Mark take the piss out of Ventnor and the Island #nitonnotnitten #microclimate

Isle of Wight Day
We got more involved than usual with this, although not by much! We started with a visit to the library to peruse the book sale and cake stall, and then headed to Newport to look around the Mosque which was having an information day. A team had come down from Regent's Park Mosque in London and set up some interesting displays about the history of Islam and its culture. There were some very helpful chaps on hand to answer any questions and explain a bit more, and I got free dates (fruit) and a bottle of water. Very pleasant and informative.

Kingsman: The Golden Circle
Took teenager to the flicks to watch the lovely Colin Firth and chums in action. Not as good as the first film, but still very enjoyable. Worth a watch.

Ventnor to Shanklin

Day 2 of Rambles with Teenagers. There were only nine students today. We were dropped off at Ventnor Botanic Gardens, where teenage wails of "There's no signal" were accompanied by staff guffaws of "Mwahahaha!". However, the portable music speaker was working so we set off accompanied by a better selection of tunes than yesterday. In fact, on the bus Queen was played, and many voices joined in to Bohemian Rhapsody. Jolly.

We left the carpark and right, heading along the main road past the cricket pitch, and down Love Lane. At the bottom we picked up the footpath and headed steeply downhill to Steephill Cove, a lovely little beach full of cafes and tiny shingle and lobster pots. The path led out steeply at the end, and we continued towards Ventnor proper, heading along the cliff to Flowers Brook, up more steps, and then descended to Ventnor esplanade. We pottered along here, walked past the fishery, stopped at the loo, then continued along the revetment to Bonchurch. Interesting fact from the language teacher with me  - 'revetment' in this case doesn't refer to the coastal defences but rather to the Victorian practice of changing for bathing (from the French). I never knew that!

We stopped near the pottery on the seafront for a breather, then set off up some steps into The Landslip. This is a wild woodland area and really rather delightful. It is full of pathways and steps, as well as many trees, ferns, brambles and other wild plants. I had the feeling it hadn't changed much for a hundred years or so. We bypassed the 'Devil's Chimney', and continued through the woods towards Luccombe. There was a thunderstorm last night, so it was very humid in the woods, and we were delighted to plunge out into open air for a while by Luccombe Chine, before heading into more on the final stretch to Shanklin.

The footpath met Luccombe Road so we followed it down to Rhylstone Gardens (another toilet break), and then down steep steps to Shanklin beach, near the chine and the Fisherman's Cottage pub. We continued for a little while longer, and stopped at the Lazy Wave café for lunch. Most of us picnicked, but some bought chips and the staff bought much needed tea and coffee! The last leg of the journey took us along Shanklin Esplanade and Hope Beach, and then up the final steep path to the clifftop and the car park by Winchester House YMCA where we waited for the bus back to school. Another lovely, if rather damp and drizzly, walk.

Route: https://gb.mapometer.com/walking/route_4579407.html
Distance: 6 miles (with lots of steep bits!)

The Landslip

Cliffs near Shanklin Chine

Culver Down from Shanklin Chine

Beach Huts

Ventnor and the Downs

Well, we had a plan. We were going to follow the National Trust route from Luccombe Down, via the Devil's Chimney, down to the beach and then back up the BIG hill. Hmmm. Sounded good. However, we got a bit lost trying to find the car park and had a grand tour of Upper Bonchurch, the local countryside and Shanklin duck pond before we figured out where it was. By this time it was nearly 3pm on a slightly gloomy autumn afternoon and we were not as keen as we had been.

Onwards and downwards though, but ditching the original route. We parked at the end of a chalk track on top of Luccombe Down and admired the magnificent views across Sandown Bay, and also the English Channel. We marched off down the Down, heading down Nansen Hill and emerging on the road opposite Smugglers Haven tea rooms by Devil's Chimney. We continued along the road for a bit, before finding the footpath on the right. Once through the gate we were confronted with a hill full of feral goats. Now, I'm reasonably sure that they posed no threat, but they had ENORMOUS horns - at least half as big as each goat -  and, quite frankly, we feared for the safety of our kneecaps if we irritated them. Also, they could run faster than us. It's not that we're a pair of big ol' scaredy cats, honest.

Back to the road in search of another footpath heading upwards, which we eventually found just past a bend in the road. On the way we were able to admire the variety of architecture in the area - the locals seem to have a thing for random turrets on their houses, - and the breathtaking, vertigo inducing, views of the town below. We found our path in the woods, but quickly realised it was treacherous so turned back; the path was narrow and steep with a precipitous drop down to the road below. Not only that, it was covered with a slippery layer of evergreen oak leaves, so turning back was really the sensible option.

We followed the path in the other direction, still through the woods but much more level, past tennis courts and grand Victorian Villas and came out on the road near the Bowling Club. We continued on the road until we got to the industrial estate and took the steep footpath there back up the down. Oh. My. Goodness. It was steep. We stopped regularly for a breather - the wind was strong and took our breath away - and eventually got to the top. Phew! The view of the town below and the surrounding hills was incredible.

The final slog took us past WW2 pill boxes and Ventnor Radar Station, which was bombed heavily in the war. I had heard rumours of an underground town under this hill years ago, and found an information board saying that there was in fact a Cold War era nuclear bunker there. I need to see this! Very exciting, but unlikely to be open to the public sadly.

An excellent, invigorating walk, and we'll do the original route another day. When we're fitter. And have warmer clothing.

Route: http://gb.mapometer.com/walking/route_4428457.html

Distance: approx. 3.5 - 4 miles.

View to Sandown Bay

Bonchurch

Random turret



Pill box

Ventnor Botanic Garden

Nearly the end of half term so teenager and I decided to have an expedition which included lunch. We headed south to Ventnor Botanic Garden, via Rookley and Whitwell (nice bendy country roads), paid the entrance fee and headed for 'Edulis', the restaurant in the gardens. Unfortunately their menu is not overly friendly for a picky teenager but she eventually decided on a ham sandwich, crisps and millionaire's shortbread, all of which met with satisfaction. I took a while to choose my meal as they all sounded yummy to me, and I eventually settled on the seafood linguine. Oh my goodness, this was yummy! Freshly caught local crab, mussels and king prawns in a nice sauce. Delish!

Once lunch was over we ambled around the gardens for an hour or so, having a good old natter and admiring the plants. The garden is on the site of a Victorian Tuberculosis hospital, and in a little valley which has a lovely, warm microclimate. Being close to the coast and the Gulf Stream helps too. Due to this, a wide variety of plants that would be too tender in many parts of the country can be grown here. Today the Echiums were at their peak, towering into the sky, ablaze with blue flowers and buzzing with bees. One of my favourite plants. Many other flowers were in bloom such as Sisyrinchium, Abutilon, Osteospermum, Allium, Syringa, Arum, and Rosa. I was particularly taken with the variety of bark textures on the many trees, and particularly liked a variety of Myrtus.

Once we had finished in the garden I perused the seed shop and bought several packets of wildflowers for my garden project. The botanic garden sells seed collected from it's own plants, as well as plants grown from cuttings from the garden, so you can get varieties of plants you wouldn't ordinarily find in a garden centre. Their gift shop is also very tempting, but today I mostly resisted the urge to buy lovely things!

Once we left we headed back towards Godshill and popped into Brownrigg Farm Shop to stock up on local produce - "Oil of Wight" anyone? - and then toddled off to Ryde for other supplies; I didn't drive my usual route and went via Ashey Road, and at one point came round a corner and down a hill to see a magnificent view before us which caused me to shriek "OH MY GOODNESS! We're so lucky to live here!".  Beautiful, beautiful Isle of Wight!

Echium flowers

Acer

Myrtus bark

Pelargonium

Allium (Chives)

Ventnor to Orchard Bay

Gorgeous day so a walk was called for. I drove to Ventnor and parked in town, then made my way down the main street towards the beach, passing the Winter Gardens on my left and walking down the slope past some formal gardens. The view across Ventnor Bay was stunning in the June afternoon sunlight; the sea was a glorious shade of blue, contrasting nicely with the golden brown shingle of the beach. The coastal path took me along the esplanade, past cafes and beach huts, and then up past the Spyglass Inn. I continued on up hill to the La Falais car park. The path carried on across turf, and I detoured uphill as I saw a sign for the 'La Falais Outdoor Theatre'; this was a raised patch of turf with a lovely view of the English Channel.

The path continued on, up and down hill, then down a set of wooden steps leading to Flower's Brook. This was a large lawned area, with a small pond and two brooks and lots of flowers. It used to be overlooked by the Victorian Steephill Castle, but this was demolished in the 1960s and all that remains is a wall and parapet around a housing estate.  From here, the path led on Castle Cove, with excellent sea defences but not much beach, and then to the lovely Steephill Cove. This is a beach owned and run by the residents, and is one of the Island's nicest beaches. Not easy to get to so rarely overcrowded. There are several cottages near the beach, all of different styles, one thatched, and all seemingly plonked down at random. Gorgeous!

The path led sharply to the right and uphill at the final ice cream shop, then took a sharp left, then right up a set of concrete steps. Turning left at the top of the steps, the path continued with Ventnor Cricket club behind hedges on the right, and shortly after past Ventnor Botanic Garden, also on the right behind a paling fence. The path at this point was under trees so was nice and shaded from the heat of the sun, which was a bit of a relief. The cliff edge was not far from the path, but was hidden by undergrowth, although there was the occasional gap that gave a vertiginous view to the rocks below! 

I continued along the path as far as Orchard Bay; the path to the bay was temporarily closed, presumably due to landslip, but the view down from the cliff was lovely, and also gave a great view of Orchard Bay House, which was mostly hidden from the main path. There is a house I could live in! I turned back at this point as there wasn't an awful lot of time left on my parking ticket, but instead of going back the way I came I cut across a field, on a footpath, and eventually came out on a farm track which led to the main road, past another thatched cottage and farmhouse. The track came out at the entrance to the village of St Lawrence, so I turned right and headed back to Ventnor. When I came to a turning down footpath V91, I headed down it and came out at Flower's Brook, so followed the coastal path back to Ventnor, stopping for a delicious ice cream on the way. Lovely walk!

Ventnor Bay

Orchard Bay

Route: http://gb.mapometer.com/walking/route_4101227.html  

Distance: 3.6 miles
Footpaths: Coastal Path, V91, V84